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Post by slash on Sept 15, 2008 8:35:23 GMT -8
I will be building another truck soon, as a daily driver. It will be bagged and bodied, and possibly running a small block This project will be my daily driver... will start by building a frame, engine, tranny and suspension. I will move the body over after I have the chassis and engine ready I will be also finishing the Pewter dime and getting it ready for paint, so don't think I've given up on that truck... The truck - 93 2dr 2wd Blazer
- 4.3 CPI Vortec Engine with a 96 4L60E tranny
- lowered 2/3
The Future Plans: - SFBD, with an underslung chassis
- RE7s up front
- Sleeve bags in the rear, either behind the axle, or even possibly on the outer link bars
- Frame built with built in Hitch to tow my motorcycle trailer
- Small block V8 with a 700R4 tranny (?)
- EDC
- Mojave heater
- No AC
- tires - old school look, maybe 15 inch rally rims with some meaty tires, still under 26 inch height (I really want some sidewall on this truck as it has to be able to handle day-to-day driving.
- Body will be set back 3/4 inch to center tires in wheel wells
- Right hand drive
Questions: - Now, the motorcycle trailer capability should not be an issue as far as stress on the frame and suspension.... after speaking with Doug, he reminded me that tongue weight is the important factor on determining if the bags can handle the load... as far as the frame goes, I am working on a way of minimizing any negative effects a trailer may have on the rear frame rails... any thoughts and opinions are always welcome...
- I have heard that you have to majorly cut into the cowl channel with a V8 body dropped 1st gen so that their is ample room for the distributor... Does anyone have good pictures of this?
- .......
- Engine questions... I am still contemplating the engine... I am unsure if I want to go with a V8 due to the rising cost of gas (yeah the V8 would be way cooler on the cool factor though)
If I run with the V8, can I keep the stock tank, sending unit and fuel pump?
- ......
- V8 Headers... what V8 headers will work best with a bodydrop?
- .......
- the 93 vortec engine I have is questionable (i think it has higher miles than what was told to me when I bought it), and as of right now, the valve seals are almost completely shot (gotta love the smoke)
If I decided not to run with the V8, I have an 89 4.3 TBI engine, harness and computer that runs like a champ... it probably could use a rebuild, but I know this engine is reliable. We've had the truck that engine is in for nearly 20 years and 300,000 miles and she still pulls hard.
I actually prefer the TBI engine over the Vortec, so if I did not get a V8, I'd go backward and put a TBI engine under the hood
- thoughts???
On another note, we are looking at another possible shop location this evening... cross fingers and hope it is affordable |
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Post by vio0633 on Sept 15, 2008 14:32:18 GMT -8
Sounds like a cool project man! As for the SFBD bro...I have never done one before but I would think as long as you run the right size box tubing along with gusset and support all the possible weak or high stress areas you should be good to go. Quick question...what kind of bike you got that you are towing with this thing? Picts?
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Post by vio0633 on Sept 15, 2008 14:35:48 GMT -8
BTW...make sure to post a project thread on here so I can keep my eye on it. Good luck to you getting shop space as well!
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Post by slash on Sept 16, 2008 5:53:30 GMT -8
Sounds like a cool project man! As for the SFBD bro...I have never done one before but I would think as long as you run the right size box tubing along with gusset and support all the possible weak or high stress areas you should be good to go. Quick question...what kind of bike you got that you are towing with this thing? Picts? Here's a pic I use in some signatures... I really do not have a bunch of pictures of this bike online... sorry for the bad pic  I also have a restoration and customization project bike I will be working on... 1967 CB450 chopped in 1970 |
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Post by slash on Sept 16, 2008 5:56:35 GMT -8
BTW...make sure to post a project thread on here so I can keep my eye on it. Good luck to you getting shop space as well! will do... |
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Post by vio0633 on Sept 16, 2008 7:35:13 GMT -8
Holy shit you got a V Star? Man those things are sick man!
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Post by low_blazer on Sept 17, 2008 19:01:58 GMT -8
Here are a couple shots of mine...I WAY over tubbed for the distributor..lol. Of course, I'm using the stock points style housing converted over to electronic, so it's quite a bit smaller than a traditional HEI setup    In the 2nd pic, you can see that the distributor is just barely into the firewall, and I tubbed it probably 3" or so... As far as headers, the absolute easiest way to go will be the Advance Adapters Slick-fits. They tuck inside the steering arm with room to spare...nothing to mess around with at all. If you run a carb'd small block, you can pull right through the factory in-tank pump with a stock style mechanical pump on the block, they pose little to no resistance. You'll be able to keep the stock tank and sending unit no problem.. I think that's it for now..lol |
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Post by slash on Sept 17, 2008 21:45:23 GMT -8
Doug, I am planning on moving the cab back at least 1/2-3/4 inch to center out the wheels... guess I won't have to notch quite as much...
thanks for posting up these pics, it definitely helps me figure this shit out.
of course, if I end up swapping the steering wheel to the other side, I'll probably rebuild the firewall completely...
as for the tank, that is good to know, as I really want to do this build on a tight budget. I found a running engine that I may go ahead and purchase, but I am still contemplating if I want to v8 it right now... seeing it will be a daily driver and gas prices are high (I dont know)...
I have a great running 4.3 TBI (89 engine, gets 30 mpg) that I can pull and rebuild if I decided to go that route also... what to do? thoughts???
oh, and I am working on the guy that has the shop we looked at monday... it is basically a pole barn with a semi quasi shop area behind it... we can easily put some tools and my drill press in those rooms and use that area for drilling fibergalss work, and box building and use the wide open shop for actual fabrication... only bad thing is, not a level floor anywhere in the main shop space...
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Post by slash on Oct 8, 2008 19:09:12 GMT -8
Ok guys... here is the scoop...
We will be starting this project soon, along with at least one more.
She will be receiving another V6 (gas mileage it is a smart step) A frame table is planned for and money is being set aside for metal for both the table and the frame ;D
We will begin Dillon's (01stlx2 on here) truck also. He has a unique 5 link going in and will lay plastic when complete.
If all goes well, we will be moving into a 2500 sq foot building the beginning of November and opening a part time shop. This location is the best we have found, level floors (no dirt floor pole barns) and plenty of space... it is also walking distance (through the woods) from my house.
The only bad I see about it, no heat, and it has a 100amp main breaker, so I am assuming it is 100amp only... the box is newer and has breakers... it does have one 40 amp 220 but I did not locate where it went. Anyone know off hand what it takes to get 200 amp service? As far as heat goes, a little electric heat or a salamander and we are good to go. It also has a big exhaust fan (can we say paint ;D )
We find out Friday regarding the whole deal. Wish us luck and hope nothing turns the deal sour.
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Post by vio0633 on Oct 9, 2008 18:14:55 GMT -8
Sounds good bro! Good luck with the project!
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Post by crafty1 on Oct 10, 2008 6:51:30 GMT -8
To get a 200 amp service you need to check the size of the line coming into your existing box. That will determine the load that can be put on the panel. If the wire is heavy enought it's just a matter of swaping out the panel. Im figuring that if there is only a 100amp panel there than the wire will not be heavy enough.
A 100amp panel will run quite alot of stuff before you overload it. Just don't run the microwave and the welder at the same time...LOL
If you have a meter outside I would pull a new wire into a new 200amp panel designated for all you high draw items (welder, compressor, and one or two 110v outlets). That way you can run all the lights and small draw items off the 100 amp panel
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Post by slash on Oct 10, 2008 7:10:32 GMT -8
A 100amp panel will run quite alot of stuff before you overload it. Just don't run the microwave and the welder at the same time...LOL Yeah, I know 100amp will allow for quite a bit of stuff, I am just concerned with overloading it... right now we have a 110 welder, lighting, a 220 welder, a 220 plasma, and soon to have a 220 80gal compressor If you have a meter outside I would pull a new wire into a new 200amp panel designated for all you high draw items (welder, compressor, and one or two 110v outlets). That way you can run all the lights and small draw items off the 100 amp panel That's probably the smartest idea, keep all existing 100amp panel on the current box and run a new 200 amp panle with our heavy equipment off that... The electric company should be able to tell me if the current drop in is 200amp or not Waiting on the call today to see if everything is good to go. If everything is good to go, then I'll worry about the 200amp service. |
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