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Post by slash on Aug 25, 2006 5:39:57 GMT -8
Ok guys, he is the deal... There is a show on September 16 that I plan on attending. The following week, the truck will be going into the garage for the winter. Here she is now.   Current:2001 reg cab S-10 2.2 4cyl with 5spd manual Optima Battery relocated to bed C Notch 2b6 bags on front 2b7 bags on the rear 2 5 Gallon Air Tanks 8 1/2 valves 3 Viair 450 compressors Swinger Solenoid Currently she lays front on the inner fenders. Rear lays out completely. Front end is roughly 3/4 to an inch from laying skid plate, but the inner fenders prevent this THE NEAR FUTURE:I am planning on a traditional body drop on this girl. I decided to go traditional body drop because I really have no problems with losing a 3 inches of headroom. I'm 5'8 so I have plent of room there. Also, I would like to keep air and heat. I plan on building a new blower box and discarding that plastic one. For you guys who have done a body drop before, any tips and hints you can give me for the body drop is appreciated. Also on my list are a few minor things, like I am planning on redoing the rear link over the winter. Plan on redoing the air management. I plan on replacing stock brake booster with a 7 inch booster and deleting the ABS. My little brother, BK, will be handling the engine rebuild. Nick will probably be doing the detail work on my engine, as long as he is still up for it. New clutch and throw out bearing. Frame painted and detailed. Shave hump off of lower control arms. Electric fan. Redo wiring and relocate ecm and fuse block. And I plan on shaving door handles, hood squirters, and antennae (spelling) Then start the interior, which includes smoothed and painted dash, smoothed door panels, kick panels, front and rear pillars... So, give me your suggestions on the body drop... I have been doing my reasearch, but want to see what you guys have to say... |
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Post by low_blazer on Aug 25, 2006 6:03:31 GMT -8
a traditional bd is really pretty straight up. Best way to do it is to get the truck level on jack stands, weld tubing to the bottom of the frame, cut the body loose and let it sit on the tubing. Take that measurement and transfer it to the frame rails...you know the deal, measure twice, cut onece. All in all, its not too bad, you'll run into tons of minute details that will make you want to tear your hair out, but it'll be worth it when its done..
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Post by slash on Aug 25, 2006 7:06:00 GMT -8
I'm bald, so no hair to tear out... LOL...
any forsight on which minute details that I may run across?
I am aware of moving, recessing, and relocating the clutch slave cylinder and the fact that brake and throttle need modified, and that I will need to relocate the main wire harness loom to either the side or reweld it in turned sideways for the grommet...
Also aware that I'll have to modify the air/heat ducting over the tranny hump...
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Post by slash on Aug 25, 2006 7:07:14 GMT -8
also, I am assuming 16 guage metal is sufficient for the filler pieces... should I use a .022 or .030 guage wire...
and before it is asked, yes, my welder uses gas...
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Post by low_blazer on Aug 25, 2006 8:15:26 GMT -8
16ga is plenty thick..you could get away with 18, but I like 16. .025 or .030 wire will be your best bet. Couple things you'll run into..you' probably need to rebuild part of the front cab mounts, as, if memory serrves, you cut through a chunk of them. Heating and ac ducting..you knew that... Brake pedal will need to be shortened and raised up, you'll probably need to move the gas pedal, but the linkage should still be fine. I think you've got a pretty good handle on it, just take your time, and start buying seam sealer now  you'll go through a ton of that crap.. |
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Post by droppedoff on Aug 25, 2006 9:33:02 GMT -8
I can't really tell ya much cuz Doug's BD was pretty much done when I met him and started helping with little stuff. But just be prepared for unexpected shit to pop up. It definitely will on a project like this.
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Post by Paul42 on Aug 25, 2006 18:14:37 GMT -8
My biggest issue was trying to keep the AC. In the end I ended up with no AC and no heat. I made a new blower box but the biggest issue was the huge AC cooler piece on the firewall. With a 4 cyl. you shouldnt have as much of a problem.
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Post by slash on Aug 25, 2006 20:27:39 GMT -8
I have been lurking on the other forums reading up on what is involved and what issues others have come upon as they have done their rides. I guess I won't concern myself with the whole ac and heat situation until the body is dropped, as I really will have no clue if it'll work or not until I get the cab to that point...
I'm not sure if the body mounts get rebuilt or not during a traditional bodydrop, I'll shoot an email out to a guy I know over in Indiana, and he'll be able to tell me.
I plan on researching all of my questions and having the answers to each prior to the start of this build... I basically have 3 1/2 weeks before I plan on starting this winter buildup... I still have a bunch of parts and materials to acquire before then...
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Post by slash on Aug 30, 2006 6:32:31 GMT -8
Question...
I have seen both angled fillers and 90 degree fillers used when doing a body drop on a dime. Is there a benefit of one style over the other? Also, if angled is better, what is best way to do the angled?
I have the stock rubber flooring right now, so new carpet is definitely in my future. As always, let me know your thoughts
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Post by Paul42 on Aug 30, 2006 8:07:21 GMT -8
I think the reason some people do the angle is the stock carpet fits a little better and also some like the look of it. But alot of the times it is because the jackass cut too close to the door and did not have room for the door panel when the door closes. I personally like the look of a huge step when I open up my door. So I say go with what you think looks the best.
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Post by slash on Aug 30, 2006 8:23:22 GMT -8
both look good in my opinion... I was wondering if one would be more reliable than the other. I personally cannot see any structural benefits of one over the other, but who am I to say... this will be my first body drop.
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Post by vio0633 on Aug 30, 2006 11:33:01 GMT -8
I dont see any structual benefit diffrences between the 2. I think most people like th have it angled so there isnt a sharp step when you open the door of your truck. Its angled so it looks a little bit smoother and hard to see the area raised up.
If you need carpet get some through ACC( auto custom carpet) I think is the name. I got my carpet through them and its plenty big. You actually have to trim it to make it fit bro. Best bet....just start cutting and dont worry so much. It all gets welded back together right?? LOL!!!
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Post by slash on Sept 7, 2006 4:44:55 GMT -8
yup... it all gets welded back together in the long run, seam sealed and covered with rhino lining...
I have decided I am going to angle it for both the structural benefit and for the cosmetics of it. I plan on having a tear down party on the weekend of the 23rd... and get the truck down to frame and cab, then I'll commence cutting.
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Post by low_blazer on Sept 7, 2006 14:23:14 GMT -8
right on...sounds like fun man....dont forget to take a ton of pics |
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Post by slash on Sept 7, 2006 19:26:34 GMT -8
shit man... I gotta keep up with nick on the raw number of pictures I take... guess I'll be busy as hell taking pics... LOL...
As I figure I have all winter to finish everything, so I am going to take my time and do everything right... and I'll document everything and post some heller pics as I hit each milestone
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you'll go through a ton of that crap..
